We were all looking forward to Broome. We had been on the road now for thirteen days and some rest and a bit of a look around were called for. Chief cook and all round helper was leaving us after Broome and Michael Small joining us. Also Jan Southern was coming over to see her son and cheer us on. So in many ways four days in Broome was special.  On advice we checked into the Roebuck Bay Caravan Park, ideally located on the shores of the bay and not too far from the town centre but further from the expanding Cable Beach sector. Probably not a good decision to stay there, will explain later. We found a coffee shop at Town Beach and started our time there looking at the view and having our first real coffee for a while. After that we looked around the old part of town, mango trees, corrugated iron shops, red rocks and learnt about its romantic history with the pearling industry and mixed ethnicity.  Plenty of tourists around this resort town, mango trees, red rocks and interesting characters.

From there we took a taxi to popular Cable Beach and Zanders, where we sampled a few brews and watched the dramatic sunset with a camel backdrop. Another taxi back to our caravan park and some chit chat with our neighbours. We befriended a few people and told them about our bike ride, and they mostly made small donations.

We were all a bit intrigued about our neighbours (they were all friendly) and the life they live with their swish  caravans. Some are away for months at a time, and they mostly get settled in  a big park like this one and basically set up another home with all the mod cons they are trying to escape from. They slumber a lot, don’t over exert themselves and retire early. Its like a big retirement home. To each his own I guess.

On the Saturday afternoon Sal and Bob escaped to the mall for a foot pedicure. They they were luxuriating in getting their toes and feet scrubbed, making chit chat with the locals. Well, after a lot of cajoling I joined them and the poor lady was aghast when she saw my battle scarred feet. Searching for the biggest industrial scissors she could find she went to work much to the amusement of the other customers.

More socialising with the neighbours and hearing how tired they were from their busy day.

Now Sunday was a special day for Sallee and I. We had the chance for a day off and booked a trip to Cape Leveque, some 200kms north on the rich red dirt road on the Dampier Peninsula. We were sad to leave Bob to his own devices for the day (sob, sob). The whole Peninsula is either government owned, or owned by various indigenous clans. There is little commercial development and it retains its rugged beauty and ancient history. We were driven along with another couple, in a new Landcruiser in a degree of comfort to Beagle Bay, the original pearl farm at Cygnet Bay and then to Cape Leveque itself. Here there is a very good restaurant with an innovative menu using local ingredients and bushtucker.  Locals in Broome will do the 400km return trip to dine there, and wander the beaches with their stunning red cliffs.

 

 

 

 

 

We returned to our camp to find Bob in good form entertaining the neighbours.

Next day we did a radio interview with Spirit FM. Ivan needed some TLC at the Britz depot, so that was next. Then it was back to Cable Beach to meet Jan Southern who arrived that afternoon. This time we met at the Cable Beach Resort, which is a huge resort hotel and the favoured spot to view the Cable Beach sunset. Jan’s son XX and partner Beccie completed our group and it was a very convivial night. Lots of laughs and good vibes. 

At that moment we all seemed remote to the rigours of  the ride. That was about to change.

Back at that camp we had some more laughs with our neighbours. We were only ten metres from Ivan with screen door shut but not locked. Sal had dumped her bag and purse on top on the lounge inside but on view. When we came back the door was open and purse gone. Sal was pretty shaken and we looked and searched everywhere. Sal was adamant she had not misplaced and it must have been stolen right under our noses. It was a sad note to end the night and we all felt let down. Others in the camp had complained about pilfering.

In the morning we accepted reality, informed the camp managers (they shrugged) and Sallee cancelled her credit cards. There was no cash in the purse to speak of.  She still had a few days in Broome, after we departed, and with no cash, licence or ID she was not happy. Then later that day something remarkable happened. She got a call from the recycling centre in Broome to say they had her purse. It was part of recycled rubbish collected that day that was hand sorted. She had a phone number inside and got the call. Apart from being a bit dirty it was all there less the $20. The thief was very responsible and considerate in discarding the purse in the recycle bin. If it had been general waste it would not have been found. Anyhow the honesty of the lady in the transfer station outweighs the dishonesty of the thief. Broome does have it share of social issues and these need to be understood before we get too judgemental.

Next day Michael flew in and we made some attempt to integrate him into our daily procedures. A bit of a shock to him no doubt. That night we were entertained by Lyn and Bill Willis from Broome Rotary Club. They invited a dozen members of their Club to their house and cooked up a bbq feast  of beef, lamb and turkey and a range of salads. Their home is something special and geared up for outdoor entertaining.  We had a wonderful night, their hospitality and camaraderie was genuine. They made a sizeable donation from the Club and also some individuals gave something extra. They also gave us a necklace with a pearl setting that we can use at a fundraiser auction in the future. Bob gave a brief talk about our ride and we departed in high spirits.

Lovely stroll into Broome’s Chinatown this morning. There is so much history here…indigenous community, pearling, bombing during WW2, beaut architecture and landscapes.

Next morning we were up at 4am to escort Bob out of town to commence his ride again. So ended our time in Broome and fond memories for this beautiful and rustic place. And goodbye to Sal for a month (xx).

 

 

 

 

 

Photos:Courtesy Bill Pixton

 

We enjoyed our couple of days in Kununurra. Trying to get used to the 2 hours time difference.

We stayed in a super busy caravan park all squashed in like sardines. Big rigs, big vans, big sat dishes. Grey nomads, mostly with assets, living the dream.

When we packed up Ivan and were ready to depart about 4:00am, we had a little misadventure. The last thing to do in the dead of night was to disconnect the water tap hose. But the valve failed and water burst everywhere. It would only stop if Bill kept holding the valve down. Only by holding the valve down could the torrents of water be tamed. Bob was ready to go, Sallee was losing it and Bill was like the Dutch boy with his finger in the dyke.  A long weekend, no maintenance staff around, and all the other wankers in their fancy vans, no one came out to help. They could all hear the commotion but it was not their problem. Bob went looking for help and finally found a man in his pjs to come out with a wrench. If it wasn’t so serious it would be funny.

Anyhow about 60kms north of Warmun we clocked over our first 1000 kms. Long way to go but we are up for it. Warmun RH was uninspiring but Halls Creek promised a different experience. It has high numbers of indigenous folk and tightly manages its alcohol access. We came across this butcher, you got to laugh, very Aussie.

That night ate at the Kimberley Hotel, a modern and busy hotel and restaurant with great food. A real surprise.

Then a 150km ride to Larrawa Station, a few kms of the highway.  Whilst it was unpowered they had good showers and toilets. This was a real find, a working cattle station dabbling in tourism. Ate with the family (Wendy and Kevin), farm hands and some travelling geologists, under the stars. And they had beer which made it a hit with Bob. We chatted and enjoyed their company and solved all the worlds problems. Had to be careful with the geologists though and avoid any criticism of the mining industry.

Bob up early and did the 140kms into Fitzroy Crossing.  We had heard a lot about Fitzroy Crossing. It was one of those places associated with the wild NW and the majestic Fitzroy River. When in flood it is one of the biggest rivers in the world. Stayed in a great caravan park where Sal and I had a swim while Bob caught up with his sleep.  Interesting clientele in the bar and Bob witnesses an altercation. Police and security people in attendance. We got the impression it happens regularly and no one seemed too concerned.

When Bob left early the next morning Sal and I had a rare opportunity to check out the river and the famous old low level Crossing. It is hard to imagine how much water goes down there in the wet season. Worth seeing.

As we had a few concerns where we could stay Bob pulled out his biggest ride so far 232 kms and 10 and a half hours on the bike all the way to Willare RH. He is a really determined person when he sets his mind to something. Not much there though but it was Ok.  All pretty tired by then anyhow.

We have met so many people along the journey, in caravan parks, restaurants, pubs everywhere who come up for chat. So often they have a story to tell about someone they know and their personal experience with MND. It is truly moving.

Our next stop is Broome (next post) and we are all excited as it marks a point in the trip and a few days RnR,

 

 

 

Photos:Courtesy Bill Pixton

We are now in Kununurra Western Australia, after ten days in the Territory. Time for some reflections on the experience so far. Somehow it feels different already.

Firstly our time in Darwin was centred around getting the van organised, buying provisions, setting up Bob’s bike, and planning the next week. The Rotary clubs of Darwin, Darwin Sunrise and Darwin North were all very welcoming and generous with their support. The boys (yes this is a mens only club) in the floral shirts made us laugh (how could we forget Fingers, Scruffy and others). Darwin Sunrise more like our own Club, smaller and a shorter agenda for the morning meeting, were entertaining and friendly. Whilst we didn’t attend a formal dinner, Jim Trobbiani and President Tony Allan shouted us out to dinner in a fine restaurant in the Casino. You couldn’t meet nicer people, one of whom had been touched by MND. The three Darwin clubs we met all made generous donations.

Now Bob does like his barramundi. So we ventured out on Saturday night to the swanky Char Restaurant. We wanted an early and quick meal before hitting the bitumen the next morning. Now it was Darwin so we thought casual was fine and rocked up in stubbies and tshirt. The maitre’ d was not impressed and after suggesting we find a more suitable eaterie, relented and ushered us outside to a high bar bench remote from his more treasured clientele. Anyhow the food was excellent and we skulked away both embarrassed and satiated.

On the road in the morning for Bob’s first ride of the fundraiser and we headed to Adelaide River Roadhouse. No problems with the 117kms. Dined at the tavern there made famous in the Crocodile Dundee movie. Next day we left early for Emerald Springs. It was here we met Grant Rawlinson, an adventure rowing and cycling 12,000kms from Singapore to Darwin, then to Coffs Harbour and then to New Zealand. You can see his story here.

Then it was 122kms onto Katherine. Interesting place dealing with some difficult indigenous issues. More of that later.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Stayed at the sprawling caravan park, met a few kind folk who made donations. Getting more into a routine with the riding, the food, rest and  support. And looking after Ivan.  Sal’s cooking has been a hit with Bob.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Victoria Roadhouse was our next stop 192 kms away. His biggest leg so far. Beautiful and scenic landscapes, the campsite on the Victoria River. Next morning away early for the relatively short trip to Timber Creek. Different style of place, plenty of shade and their own resident crocodile.

Day 6 Bob was away before 5:00am heading to Kununurra. We were unsure whether we could push through but Bob carried on over 230kms to arrive in the dark at Kununurra just over the border in WA. That completed our first week of riding and ten days in the Territory.

We have all got on pretty well without too many dramas. Often not having an internet or even phone connection has been frustrating. Whilst Bob finished the week pretty strong we are looking forward to a rest day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Photos: Courtesy Bill Pixton